Monstera Deliciosa (Swiss Cheese Plant) is one of the most admired houseplants for its iconic foliage. Yet even seasoned plant lovers encounter challenges keeping it lush and thriving (it’s not easy!). This guide dives deep into every aspect of Monstera care, from ideal light and soil to propagation and potting, so your Swiss Cheese Plant becomes the envy of all.
Why Monstera Make an Excellent Indoor Plant
Monstera Deliciosa and its relatives have become staples in interior plant design. Here’s why they make such exceptional indoor companions:
- Aesthetic Appeal: With their large, glossy leaves and natural fenestrations (leaf holes), Monstera bring a tropical, architectural flair to any space.
- Air Purification: Like many large-leafed plants, Monstera Deliciosa helps improve indoor air quality by filtering airborne toxins and releasing oxygen, making your living space healthier and fresher.
- Adaptability to Indoor Conditions: Monstera thrives in common household temperatures and can adjust to typical indoor humidity levels, especially when supplemented by simple methods like misting or pebble trays.
- Longevity and Growth Potential: Given proper care, a single Monstera plant can live for years and grow impressively large. Their climbing nature also allows vertical growth on moss poles or trellises, maximising visual impact without taking up much floor space.
The Different Monstera Varieties
While Monstera Deliciosa is the most popular, the Monstera genus contains several stunning species and cultivars. Here’s a breakdown of popular Monstera varieties to help you choose the perfect one:
- ‘Monstera Deliciosa’: Large, split, and holey leaves. Known for dramatic fenestrations and rapid growth.
- ‘Monstera Adansonii‘: Smaller leaves with more uniform holes throughout. A vining type, great for hanging baskets or trailing shelves.
- ‘Monstera Borsigiana’: A subspecies or variety of Deliciosa with slightly smaller leaves and faster growth.
- ‘Monstera Thai Constellation’: A variegated cultivar of Deliciosa with cream and green marbled leaves. Rare and highly sought after. My favourite!
- ‘Monstera Albo’: White-variegated version of Deliciosa, often with large splotches or half-moon patterns.
- ‘Monstera Obliqua’: Extremely delicate leaves with more holes than leaf tissue. Rare and challenging to care for.
Soil & Potting
- Soil recommendation: Combine 2 parts peat moss, 1 part perlite, 1 part orchid bark and 1 part compost. This provides a perfect airy and acidic mix for the Monstera.
- Pot size & type: Use one a couple of inches (2-4cm) larger than the root ball, with drainage holes.
- Repotting timing: Every 2-3 years (check for signs of being root-bound), repot during spring. Choose a pot an 1-2 inches (2-5cm) larger than the previous one.
Watering Techniques & Frequency
- Frequency: Generally once a week in spring/summer; every 10–14 days in autumn/winter. Always adjust to your environment, water if the top inch (2cm) of soil feels dry.
- Method: Water thoroughly until it drains from the pot’s bottom, and discard excess water sitting in the saucer after 10–15 minutes to prevent root rot.
- Signs you’re overwatering: Yellowing leaves, wet soil alongside mould growth, dark brown patches forming on leaves.
- Signs you’re underwatering: Curled or dry brown patches on leaves, soil pulling from pot edges and wilted appearance.
Feeding & Fertilising
- Fertiliser Choice: Monstera’s prefer a fertiliser high in nitrogen, a solution with 3-1-2 NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) is perfect.
- Frequency: Feed every 4-6 weeks during the growing season. Reduce frequency going into autumn and stop fertilising throughout the winter period.
- Pre-watering: Always water before fertilising to prevent root burn and ensure optimal nutrient uptake.
Light Requirements
- Bright, indirect light: Filtered sunlight, such as through a thin curtain, slightly away from the window or in the corner next to a window.
- Window selection: Monstera’s typically prefer middling light levels provided by north- or east-facing windows. South- and west-facing windows can be suitable by placing the plant a few feet away.
- Low light symptoms: Not getting enough light will result in slowed growth, smaller leaves and less fenestration (leaf perforation).
Temperature & Humidity
- Ideal temperature: Swiss Cheese Plants prefer a temperature range of 18-27°C (65–80 °F). Don’t allow the temperature to drop below 15 °C (60 °F).
- Ensure stable conditions: Avoid drafts and exposure to radiators, heaters or open windows during cold periods.
- Promote airflow: This helps to prevent fungal issues.
- Ideal humidity: Monstera’s can adapt to lower humidity, but they will thrive in high humidity environments (60-80%).
- Increasing humidity: Use a humidifier, mist leaves weekly, or place a tray of pebbles and water beneath the pot.
Routine Care
- Pruning: Remove yellowing, damaged or ageing leaves.
- Trim: Large or leggy stems to encourage bushier growth.
- Support: Using a moss pole allows the Monstera to climb, encouraging growth.
- Cleaning Leaves: Gently wipe leaves with a damp cloth monthly to remove dust. This maximises photosynthesis and pest detection.
Monstera Propagation
The two main methods for propagating Monstera are as follows:
Stem Cuttings
- Cut a stem just below a node with at least two leaves
- Place in water
- Roots will appear in 2-6 weeks, then pot up
Air Layering
- Make a small wound near a stem node
- Wrap with moist sphagnum moss and seal with plastic wrap
- After roots form, cut below and pot up
Seasonal Care Guide
- Spring: Check moisture weekly, start fertilising, consider repotting or propagating
- Summer: Continue checking moisture and fertilising, prune any leggy growth or unhealthy foliage
- Autumn: Reduce watering and fertilisation, monitor potential humidity issues from central heating
- Winter: Continue reduced watering and humidity monitoring, pause fertilisation, and try to maintain light levels by moving the plant location to better lit areas.
Monstera Common Problems & Solutions
| Problem | Causes | Solutions |
| Small leaves, no fenestration | Low Light | Move to a brighter spot or utilise grow lights |
| Yellow leaves | Overwatering | Allow soil to dry out before watering and consider repotting if the problem persists |
| Leaf edges brown | Low humidity or chemicals | Raise the humidity and use filtered water |
| Leggy stems | No support | Add a moss pole and prune back longer vines |
| Spots or stickiness | Pests/fungus | Isolate and treat with neem oil/insecticidal soap. |
If your identified issue has more than one solution, it’s advisable to change one variable at a time. This helps to identify the real cause and avoids shocking the plant, preventing any further issues.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q: Why aren’t my Monstera leaves perforated?
A: Lack of bright, indirect light or the plant is too young. Mature vines in the right light form fenestrations.
Q: Can I propagate Monstera in water?
A: Yes, it’s best to transfer to soil once roots are 5–7 cm long to support long-term healthy growth.
Q: Is Monstera toxic to pets?
A: Yes, it contains calcium oxalate crystals. Keep out of reach of cats, dogs and children.