Pothos (Epipremnum aureum), also known as devil’s ivy, is widely celebrated as one of the easiest, most forgiving indoor plants available. This guide dives into every aspect of caring for your Pothos, from soil and watering techniques to propagation, seasonal routines, and troubleshooting common pests or issues.
Why Pothos Make An Excellent Indoor Plant
Pothos has earned its place as a top indoor plant for a reason. This section explores what makes it such a rewarding and low-maintenance addition to any space:
- Resilient: Pothos thrives in low-light, fluctuating temperature, and sporadic watering situations, making it extremely forgiving and perfect for novice growers, even when conditions are less than ideal.
- Air‑purifying: Studies show Epipremnum aureum removes common indoor pollutants (formaldehyde, benzene, xylene), improving air quality in indoor environments.
- Fast‑growing: Under bright indirect light and warmth, vines can grow 12–18 inches per month, quickly filling hanging baskets or trellises.
- Low‑maintenance: With minimal feeding, occasional watering, and sparse pruning, this plant continues vigorous growth with minimal effort.
- Easy propagation: Stem cuttings root in water or moist soil within 2–4 weeks, allowing for the rapid duplication of healthy specimens.
- Versatile styling: Pothos provide many decorative options; they look great in hanging baskets, on shelves, or trained up moss poles.
The Different Pothos Varieties
Pothos comes in several stunning cultivars, each offering unique colours and patterns. Here are some of the most popular types you can grow indoors:
- ‘Golden’ (classic): Medium‑green leaves with golden marbling; most common cultivar, maintaining vibrant variegation in moderate to bright indirect light.
- ‘Neon’: Bright chartreuse new growth retains glowing colour in optimal light but fades in dim conditions, turning pale green.
- ‘Marble Queen’: Heavily variegated with cream and green; in low light, the white may diminish, reverting leaves toward solid green.
- ‘Pearls & Jade‘: Compact leaves splashed with light cream or white flecks; ideal for desktop containers or terrariums.
- ‘Manjula’: Deeply rippled, curly white‑green variegation; slower growing and more rare, prized by collectors.
Soil & Potting
Proper soil and potting are essential for healthy root development and plant longevity. This section covers what your pothos needs to thrive below the surface:
- Recommended soil mix: Use peat moss, perlite, compost and orchid bark in a 1:1:1:1 ratio. Alternatively, use a general houseplant soil blended with ~30–40% perlite or orchid bark to balance moisture retention and airflow around the roots.
- Slightly acidic pH: Slightly acidic soil aids nutrient absorption and supports healthy root function.
- Pot size: Choose a pot just 1–2 inches larger than the current root ball, ensure drainage holes, and avoid oversized pots that lead to overwatering.
- Repotting routine: Repot every 1–2 years when root-bound or drainage holes show roots; trim dead roots and refresh soil in spring/summer.
- Avoid heavy soil: Dense clay or garden soil retains excess water, leading to root suffocation and rot. Stick with airy mixes.
Watering Techniques & Frequency
Knowing how and when to water your pothos is key to avoiding root rot and encouraging vibrant growth. These tips will help you get the balance just right:
- Frequency: Water weekly during the growing season, reduce watering in winter. For optimal results, water when the top inch (2.5cm) of soil feels dry.
- Method: Water thoroughly until it drains from the pot’s bottom. Discard excess water sitting in the saucer after 10–15 minutes to prevent root rot. Alternatively, place the pot in a tray of water for 20-30 minutes, and the soil will absorb the water from below.
- Signs you’re overwatering: Yellowing or browning leaves, persistent wilting despite watering, black spots indicating root rot and fungal growth on the soil surface.
- Signs you’re underwatering: Curled leaves, edges of leaves turning brown and crispy and slow growth.
- Tap water caution: As always, it’s recommended to use filtered, distilled or rainwater. However, Pothos are hardy plants, so tap water is generally considered safe to use unless it’s heavily chlorinated or has high levels of minerals.
Feeding & Fertilising
To grow lush and strong, Pothos benefit from occasional feeding. This section outlines how to choose and apply the right fertiliser throughout the year.
- Balanced liquid fertiliser: Apply a general-purpose (e.g. 20‑20‑20) houseplant fertiliser diluted to half strength to avoid salt build-up or root burn.
- Frequency: Feed every 4-6 weeks in the growing season. Reduce as plant growth starts to slow before stopping completely in winter.
- Pre-watering: Watering before fertilising helps to prevent root burn and ensures your pothos is able to absorb the nutrients.
- Avoid over‑fertilisation: Excess nutrients can cause leaf burn, black or brown edges, and salt crust on the soil surface. Flushing the soil every few months can reduce a build-up of salt and minerals.
Light Requirements
Pothos is flexible with lighting, but providing the right conditions can boost its growth and variegation. Learn how to make the most of your indoor light:
- Bright, indirect light: Optimal for rich variegation and rapid growth; place near east/north windows or filtered light sources such as a thin curtain.
- Avoid direct sun: Long periods of intense direct sunlight can scorch the leaves, leaving brown patches and bleaching the plant’s natural colours.
- Low‑light tolerance: A Pothos will survive in low-light conditions. However, growth will slow and variegation may fade. You may also find stems become elongated and leggy as they reach for a light source.
- Supplemental lighting: While not essential, using a full-spectrum grow light during winter periods can give your Pothos a real boost.
Temperature & Humidity
Although Pothos is easygoing, it does best within certain temperature and humidity ranges. Here’s how to maintain a healthy environment for your plant:
- Ideal temperature: Optimal growth occurs in the 18–29 °C (65–85 °F) range. Temperatures below 10 °C (<50 °F) risk damage and stunted growth.
- Prefer moderate humidity (40–60%): In line with the recommended humidity levels for a home. Once again, the Pothos highlights its ease of care.
- Winter heating warning: Winter heating can strip moisture from the air. This isn’t usually a problem for a Pothos, but keep an eye out for any brown leaf tips, which may indicate humidity issues.
- Avoid cold drafts: Keep away from doors, windows, air-conditioning vents or radiators that cause temperature fluctuations, potentially shocking the plant.
Pothos Propagation
One of the joys of owning a Pothos is how easily it can be propagated. Here’s how to multiply your collection or share it with others using simple methods.
Cutting Propagation
- Take a cutting from a stem just below the node. Ensure the stem has strong growth, indicated by a few leaves and the length of the stem.
- Place the cutting in a cup of water and wait for roots to start to develop. While this often yields better results, you can skip this step and plant straight into the soil.
- Plant the cutting into a well-draining potting mix (if you haven’t already!).
- Water regularly to keep consistently moist. Consider placing a clear bag over the pot to trap humidity.
Division Propagation
- Gently remove the Pothos from its pot and loosen the root ball with a knife or garden fork.
- Divide the root mass into halves, ensuring each section has healthy roots and foliage.
- Plant each section in its own pot with well-draining potting mix.
- As always, water regularly to keep consistently moist and use a clear bag as a humidity dome to increase your chance of success.
Layering Propagation
- Prepare an additional pot with well-draining soil.
- Identify a long, healthy stem and carefully bury one of the nodes in the new pot you have just prepared.
- Water consistently for a few weeks, then check for root formation by digging around the node.
- Once roots have formed, detach the stem from the parent plant with a clean pair of scissors.
Routine Care
Keeping your pothos in top shape doesn’t require much, but small weekly habits go a long way. Follow these routines to support consistent growth and appearance:
- Clean leaves: Gently wipe foliage with a damp cloth or rinse to remove dust, enhancing photosynthesis and leaf appearance.
- Prune leggy vines: Trim stems just above nodes to encourage branching and fuller, bushier growth.
- Rotate regularly: Turn the pot every few weeks, especially in lower light, to prevent one‑sided growth.
- Inspect for pests monthly: Check leaf undersides and nodes for spider mites, mealybugs or scale; treat early with neem oil or insecticidal soap if found.
Seasonal Care Guide
Golden Pothos has different needs throughout the year. Adjust your care habits seasonally to keep your plant adapting smoothly to its environment.
Spring & Summer
- Increase watering frequency: Warmer temperatures in the summer months can cause the soil to dry out, check twice a week and water if the top inch of soil is dry.
- Feed regularly: Resume fertilising every 4–6 weeks to support growth during the plants peak growth period.
- Divide or repot: Spring is the best time to refresh soil or propagate while the plant is coming out of dormancy.
Autumn & Winter
- Reduce feeding: As growth slows, your Pothos won’t require as many nutrients. Reduce frequency in autumn and halt fertilising in winter.
- Low temperatures: Keep indoor temperature above 10°C (50°F), move away from cold windows, if necessary.
- Water sparingly: Cold temperatures will reduce evaporation, leaving the soil moist for longer. Water every two weeks or check the top inch of soil for dryness.
- Prune dead leaves: This will allow the plant to redirect energy to the healthier foliage. Avoid pruning healthy foliage; leave this until spring when the plant starts to grow again.
Common Problems & Solutions
Problem | Causes | Solutions |
---|---|---|
Yellowing leaves | Usually, overwatering or poor drainage | Allow soil to dry between waterings, repot with fresh soil if you suspect root rot (musty smell) |
Brown and crispy tips or edges | Underwatering, low humidity or too much direct light | Adjust watering, consider placing the pot on a pebble tray. Move to a lower light location. |
Leggy or sparse growth | Low light | Move to a brighter location and trim back any leggy stems |
Webbing, stickiness or spots | Pest infestation | Treat with neem oil or insecticidal soap and isolate from other plants |
Mould on the soil surface and fungus gnats | Persistently moist soil | Ensure adequate drainage, reduce watering frequency. Repot with fresh soil if the problem persists. |
If your identified issue has more than one solution, it’s advisable to change one variable at a time. This helps to identify the real cause and avoids shocking the plant, preventing any further issues.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q: How often should I repot my Pothos?
A: Every 1–2 years, or sooner if roots emerge from drainage holes, and growth becomes stunted.
Q: Is Pothos toxic to pets or humans?
A: Yes. Golden pothos contains calcium oxalate crystals, which are toxic to cats, dogs, and humans if ingested. Symptoms may include mouth irritation, vomiting, and drooling. Always keep it out of reach. For pet-friendly alternatives, click here.
Q: How can I train my Pothos to climb?
A: Attach vines to a moss pole, trellis, or wall using soft plant ties. Golden pothos naturally climbs in the wild and responds well to vertical supports indoors.
Q: Should I mist my Pothos?
A: Misting is optional but can help temporarily raise humidity. For more lasting effects, use a humidifier or group your plants together.
Q: Why is my Pothos not growing?
A: Growth may be stunted due to low light, cold temperatures, nutrient deficiency, or being rootbound. Increase light exposure, feed monthly, and check if the plant needs repotting.
Q: How do I encourage fuller, bushier growth?
A: Prune leggy vines just above a leaf node to stimulate branching. Regular trimming encourages more lateral growth and a fuller plant shape.